Pierced Primers !!

Forums Reese Bottom Chat Room Pierced Primers !!

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    • #3586
      Wynne Echols
      Keymaster

      Had an interesting experience last week fire forming dasher brass that I thought I would pass along. I had never been made aware that different brands of primers are thicker or tougher. After I had hydraulic formed 100 pieces of BR brass into dasher brass, two of the grandsons and I headed off to Reese Bottom to do some shooting. I had used some loading components that I was trying to get rid of and save the stuff I normally use, will not call names. About round #35 did not fire and when we pulled the round the bullet stuck and we made a mess with the powder. After three more fires, the trigger would not pull. I took the rifle apart and blew out the trigger and everything but that did not help. Loaded up everything and headed to Backwater Custom Rifles. First question was did I pierce any primers. Further observation determined that nine had pierced and had actually broken a piece in the trigger. Suggestion: know about your stuff and think long and hard before building a rifle on a wildcat platform that requires reforming a case. That is all, WWE

    • #3588
      Anonymous
      Inactive

      Lots of things can cause pierced primers. Too much powder, too little powder, primers too soft for load, ect. As a rule of thumb Federal primers are on the soft side and CCI are on the hard end of scale. Most others fall some where in between. Sorry to hear about all the problems it caused. Need to share what you think the problem was!

    • #3590
      Al Barr
      Participant

      My situation with pierced primers were not with hydraulicly formed cases.

      I suspect that the problem was the same; excessive head space. I solved my problem (in Wynne’s barrel) by sizing the necks up with a .25 caliber neck turning spindle, then sizing the neck back down with a bushing die until the case would chamber under firm bolt pressure. No more problems, and they shot very well.

    • #3592
      Wynne Echols
      Keymaster

      Steve, I am not sure what caused the problem. What I do know: did not use your hard end of scale primers; 30 grains of Varget[BR load but light for dasher]; the hydraulic die pushes the shoulder forward but does not perfectly form the shoulder and I experienced a very firm bolt close which would lead me to believe headspace is not the problem. I am guessing that the problem that I experienced was with the type of primers that I used. WWE

    • #3594
      Al Barr
      Participant

      No problem with thick neck walls? One other problem that I experienced is that I had one batch of Berger 105 VLDs that had about a half dozen bullets oversize by a few thousands. Thought at first that I was having a problem with seating depth. Finally got to stopping everything and started measuring, Weeded out the oversize bullets and everything went back to normal.

      Back to your problem; does your bolt close with same pressure with an empty sized case and the same case with a bullet loaded?

      Have you measured your hydraulicly formed cases to the shoulder datum line and how does that measurement compare to the dasher cases that you have fired a few times?

      • #3598
        Wynne Echols
        Keymaster

        Al, sorry to take so long to respond. The truth is that I did not do any measuring or sizing or fitting on this first firing in the fire form barrel. All that I am trying to accomplish is to get the bullets to fire and form to the chamber. Once I get them shaped, then I will customize to the individual rifle. I actually bought Mr. Webb’s die from Britt. The die was supposedly sized to Britt’s reamer. After hydro forming with the die, one shot really creates a nice case. My only other experience with fire forming was taking BR brass and loading a bullet long and firing. Seemed to work, but I was not pleased with the shoulder angle until after three firings[a lot of loading and shooting] Was never real sure about how consistent the stretch was. As you know, I have two dashers and was shooting the same brass in both and had shot the brass 18 to 20 times. I thought that by the end of this season I noticed some inconsistency in both rifles. The purpose of all of this is to form new brass and have specific brass for specific rifle, hopefully eliminating a variable. Time will tell. WWE

    • #3599
      Dave Burkart
      Participant

      Wynne, I have had good success when fireforming after DJ hydraulicly forms the brass by loading the brass in the gun and closing the action then ejecting. I then use feral primers, soft, and jam the bullets .020, twenty thousandths. This seems to alleviate the misfires and pierced primers.

      Dave

    • #3602
      Al Barr
      Participant

      Wynne,
      Before I fire formed my BR brass to Dasher in your take off barrel, I read everything that I could find about fire forming the Dasher. It seemed that the easy way out was to seat the bullets long and fire away. Had about 50% failed to fire and if they did fire, had blanked primers. Real PITA to disassemble bolt and clean up.

      Next I expanded the case necks with a .25 caliber neck turning spud, sized necks down with bushing die until the bolt closed with moderate effort. Fired consistently, accurate, and great cases.

      Chapter 2: Second firing showed pressure symptoms with mild loads. Started measuring, and discovered case neck dimensions had no clearance in the chamber with a bullet seated in my cases. Solved by turning case necks to a proper fit.

      Success! Not so fast; all of a sudden, I experienced heavy bolt effort in chambering??? That’s when I found that about 5 or 6 bullets out of a box 100 were over nominal size by .002 (diameter) and caused the chambering problem.

      Was it worth effort; yes! When my old, shakey, half blind self can do my part; my Dasher will shoot well under 1/2MOA out to 600 yards. I love my Britt built Dasher!

      Hopefully, if all of the good shooters share their experiences, we can all learn and get better.

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