April 24, 2014 at 7:32 am #879Wynne EcholsKeymaster
Do you clean your rifle’s barrel? If so, how often and what products have you had good results from? Anybody ever used WipeOut?
April 24, 2014 at 9:25 am #880Thomas L. WebbParticipant
I do not use wipeout. I use 4 cleaners, Montana ext, T&M, Sweets and Barns CQ10. I clean every 100 rounds and clean to a clean patch for each solvant. Then I leave Kroil in the barrel untill I run 3 ,dry patches through and shoot 5 rounds.
April 24, 2014 at 10:15 pm #885Mike ReekieParticipant
I use a loose fitting patch soaked with Rem Oil and pass it through the barrel about 5 times….let is set a while, then dry with patches, plug the muzzle with a tight patch and basically fill the barrel with the Wipeout foam, let it soak overnight, then clean with tight fitting patches until they are only slightly gray. I clean after every two matches, about 100 or so rounds fired. Seems to work for me.
April 25, 2014 at 5:48 pm #908Doug PughParticipant
I have recently changed my cleaning routine. I now use kroil after ever shooting session and after 200 or so rounds I use kroil and jb bore paste to get any built up carbon out of the throat area. I tried this method on a hunting rifle of mine before I used it on a match barrel and it worked well and seemed to bring back a little bit of the accuracy on a fairly old factory barrel. The only thing I have to remember is to let the kroil sit for a few minutes to get under the crude in the barrel so it cleans out easily. This may not be the best method to clean with but it seems to be working so far for me. I also use sweets for copper fouling but I only use that on the break in of a new barrel because I have not noticed any copper build up after 300 to 400 rounds and cleaning with sweets through any of the fine barrels that Britt has chambered for me. Britt does do a fine job with the chambering and I thinks this helps a lot in the cleaning process to make it as painless as possible to do when it comes to copper fouling on the initial break in process. Maybe I haven’t made anyone gringe with my method and if someone knows a better way I’m all ears.
April 25, 2014 at 7:40 pm #909AnonymousInactive
As long as your method is getting them clean then I think that works. More barrel are ruined by improper cleaning methods than from shooting if the truth were known. I like my barrels clean but I sure don’t over clean them. I clean after ever match, that can be as few as 40 or 50 rounds or if I am shooting a F-Class match it usually is 80 rounds.
There is one product that is a must for cleaning and that is a good fitting “Bore Guide”. Also you must be careful of the Crown and not let you rod or jag drag going through the muzzle end.
April 28, 2014 at 8:31 am #966AnonymousInactive
I shoot mostly benchrest, and in a 6mmBR long range rifle I clean after two or four targets, depending on my mood. I don’t notice a difference if I clean within 50 rounds of fire.
I agree with Roland, and I use the TK Nolan bore guide. It is expensive, but it will last forever, and it gives me the feeling that I’m doing all I can to prevent barrel damage from cleaning.
I have for the last year been using a combination of Hoppes and Kroil to clean my rifles, and I don’t know of anything that works better. I mix it in small applicator bottles in a ratio of two parts Hoppes to one part Kroil, and it really seems to do the job well. If I have time when cleaning at home, I let it sit in the bore for a day or two after I have thoroughly cleaned it, and sometimes I get a little more fouling out and other times it is totally clean. I have a Hawkeye bore scope, and if I look and the bore has a brown hue to it, indicating a carbon buildup, I will put Iosso on a tight fitting patch and short stroke it through the bore. At this point the bore is shiny clean.
If you will take a fiber brush that is slightly bigger than your neck in the chamber and put some bore tech carbon remover on the tip of the brush, insert it in the neck of the chamber and rotate it 20 or so times while the barrel is still warm, it will remove all of the carbon ring also.
April 30, 2014 at 12:10 pm #1037Ron LewisParticipant
Here’s how I do it while working up my initial load for a new barrel. (Note to Readers:
Individual results may vary, actual mileage may be different than posted, you get the idea)
This was written by my good friend Speedy many years ago when I was chasing the race around the country)
S.G.&Y. BARREL BREAK-IN & CLEANING INSTRUCTIONS
Many of our customers upon taking delivery of their new gun or barrel are in a quandary as how to go about breaking-in that new barrel for maximum life and accuracy. With so much written in magazines these days stating use this, don’t use that, brush, don’t brush…what’s a person to do?? At S.G.&Y Precision, we have a unique opportunity to inspect many barrels on a daily basis with our video borescope. Consequently, we see the results of a variety of break-in as well as cleaning procedures, and most of them leave the rifle owners with their mouth agape when they see the fruits of their misinformed labor on our color monitor. We have seen practically new barrels ruined with less than a hundred rounds shot through them by some of the crazy and sometimes humorous break-in methods. Anyway here goes for what it’s worth.
Bore guides – If you don’t have one get one! Without a good bore guide you are just wasting your time trying to break-in a barrel or cleaning it for that matter. More barrels are destroyed by cleaning without a bore guide than by shooting. There are many types and brands of bore guides available on the market and range in price from $5.00 to $50.00. The only one we recommend is the Lucas two-piece bore guide. They are the best insurance you can buy for that new barrel. All other bore guides in my opinion are only good for keeping the solvents out of the trigger and action.
Solvents – We recommend Sweets 7.62 for copper and a solvent mix of our own (Actually Pat McMlllan gave me this formula) for powder fouling and for cleaning/storing your gun for the next match or season. This Speedy Formula is made as follows: Mix 2/3rds Hoppes # 9 Plus Black Powder solvent with 1/3rd Regular Hoppes # 9 Nitro solvent. Let this mixture set overnight and it will form a sort of gel that adheres very well to the brush and cuts powder fouling to a minimum. Note: Butches Boreshine may be substituted for this Speedy formula.
Procedure for “Break-in”- Before firing that first shot, clean the barrel as if it had been shot by following these simple steps:
Step1 – Insert Lucas bore guide into receiver and chamber. If you don’t have one stop here and get one, if not, just shoot your gun and forget trying to take any care of your barrel at all. Lf you do have one, proceed and give yourself an “At-A-Boy” for being astute enough to have purchased the proper tools for the job. Note: One “Aw-Shit” wipes out all your “At-A-Boys”.
Step 2 – Run one wet patch of Sweets through the bore and let soak for approximately 30 seconds. Do not patch this out.
Step 3 – Next, run the brush through the barrel only enough to expose the entire brush. Yes, I know that you still have 12 more inches of cleaning rod you could push out the end of your barrel but we want to protect that new crown. Also. if that rod hangs out that far, you will eventually start wearing down the rifling at the crown from about 4 to 7 o’clock. This is very bad “JU-JU” for accuracy. OK, back to our next step. Once the brush is exposed, saturate it well with our Speedy Formula or Butch’s Boreshine and SLOWLY run the brush through the bore 10 complete back and forth passes while keeping the rod as straight as possible. This is when the Lucas bore guide really pays for itself. Remember, the key word is slowly. We are not trying to break any speed records. Let this sit a minute or two and proceed to the next step.
Step 4 – After you have let the barrel soak for a few moments, saturate a patch with the Speedy Formula or Butch’s Boreshine and pass it through the bore. Follow this with 2 dry patches and then dry the chamber with Brake Kleen or lighter fluid. Next, gently wipe the crown off with a soft cloth and lube your bolt (lets not gall the lugs just yet). Now. your ready to shoot your first shot. Then follow the schedule below to complete your barrel break-in.
1. Clean barrel / lube bolt / 1 shot.
2. Clean barrel / lube bolt / 5 shots.
3. Clean barrel / lube bolt / 10 shots.
4. Clean barrel / lube bolt /10 to 15 shots and clean again.
Additional Cleaning Tips
Each time you clean you may also follow the last dry patch with a patch soaked with LOCK-EEZ. This is a graphite powder suspended in a quick evaporating carrier that coats the bore slightly before passing that first round through a completely dry bore.
We are always asked about powder fouling and how to remove it. The only product that we have seen that really does a good job on powder fouling, especially on the carbon ring that forms just ahead of where the neck ends in the chamber, is IOSSO Bore Paste. This is used with a Pro-Shot nylon bristle brush and worked slowly in the neck and throat areas, then slowly down the entire bore. Follow this up with a few wet patches, then dry the bore as usual. and your ready to shoot.
Follow the outline above for your regular cleaning program and I promise that your barrels will deliver their greatest accuracy and life without a lot of grief and hours of wondering if they are clean.
PS: If you are just getting started, this is a good point to begin
April 30, 2014 at 9:54 pm #1046AnonymousInactive
I noticed several people using kroil in their barrel. We used this a lot in the paper mill to loosen rusty bolts, never thought about cleaning a gun with it. Great idea, Thanks. One thing I found to be better than kroil for loosening rusty bolts was PB Blaster. Has anyone ever tried this for removing carbon? Think I may try it next cleaning and post my results.
May 1, 2014 at 4:06 am #1051Thomas L. WebbParticipant
This is a good read! Some great ideas and look forward to the May shoot.
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