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I clean using a vibrating Lyman case cleaner with corncob media, but I don’t do it every time I reload. Probably about every fourth time. Meanwhile I polish the neck area lightly with ultrafine steel wool, and I make sure the primer pocket is very clean each time.
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Wynne, I am using SS media in a Tumlers Tumbler wet. This gets your brass as clean as new and it looks like new as well. I am not sure this is a good thing however. After talking to a few point blank benchrest shooters who almost never clean the brass that removing that fine film of fouling from the neck decrease’s there accuracy. Not sure how I feel about it just yet but I am trying there way for awhile. I do use OOOO steel wool on the outside of the necks down to the shoulder, and I do clean all of my primer holes before I seat a new primer. One thing I do know for certain clean shiney brass looks good but it doesn’t win any matches by it self.
Roland
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Gunny, I also have a Tumlers Tumbler that I use on occasion as well as a Lyman vibrating tumbler with walnut media. As for the Tumler’s product, I have heard it suggested that the tumbler was rough on the brass but does a good job cleaning. I would suggest filling the drum full of water, not half full, to keep the brass from beating itself to death. I also add dawn dish liquid and lemon shine, a product I saw mentioned on the internet. You mentioned above, the inside of the case necks. The fairies told me to: take a(my 6mmBR) .243 brass bore brush, insert it into a cordless drill or something to spin it, while the brush is slowly turning take slivers of your oooo steel wool and allow the steel wool to be twisted into the bristles of the bore brush. Once you have a proper buildup of steel wool worked into the bore brush, then insert into the mouth of your cartridge case and spin being careful not to overdo it. The combination of oooo steel wool and the brass bore brush should not be overly harsh and should allow for a clean, very smooth case mouth, which in turn, should allow for a very consistent bullet release.
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I use 0000 Steel Wool and a Sinclair Case Driver on a cordless drill! All of my cases are sorted for either Sighters or Record and numbered according to which row in the ammo box they sit. This does not allow for bulk cleaning. I use a Sinclair Primer Pocket uniformer driven by the drill to remove carbon from the pockets. I don’t clean the inside of the necks. I use a tapered neck design on my reamers for consistent bullet realse.
Tony -
I have a stainless tumbling setup, and it does make brass look like new inside and out, and it will peen the heck out of the mouths of your cases if you allow the brass to remain in the tumbler too long. I usually don’t go over 45 minutes. Also, it will take all the carbon out of the case which I don’t think is the best way to go. I like to leave the carbon in the neck, so consequently I don’t clean with the pins very often. I do like to anneal the cases often, but it concerns me if this removes the carbon out of the necks also.
So, I have a question: Do any of you guys have experience with the use of graphite or some other substance to lubricate the inside of necks in order to get an even bullet seating force? I have had seating forces differ from case to case in a common lot of cases by as much as three times the force required from one case to another. I’d love to be able to totally clean my cases every time, anneal and then lube the necks in some fashion, if this would give even seating force.
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I also use the wet tumbler to clean my cases I am shooting a dasher at 1000 yd from williamsport I also polish the inside of my necks. I have read a lot about cleaning from the short range benchrest shooter. Heck they don’t even weigh there powder on a scale most of the time. So do I do as the short range shooters do or the mid ranges guys. Here is what I do every time clean the cases, polish the inside of the necks anneal every time then check the neck thickness and length every time so they look like new cases. Primer pocket cleaned and flash hole size checked again. I mark my match cases with a small knotch in the rim of the case to mark them . I do lube the bullet lightly before seating it. So all the bullets seat the same. And when done loading the cases, weigh them again, should all weigh the same. you weigh the cases, bullets, primers, and powder so they should all weight the same when done.so if not ????? Why. Al these steps are important , maybe one step is not. But which step is it. So I do them all every time. I test theory’s all the time to determine if they are fact or fiction, I retired and shoot almost every day trying to find the perfect set up. So for sure I can tell you this, bullets make all the difference.570 916 9095. My number if you want to discuss my thoughts.
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I only clean my brass occasionally with corncob media in a Rcbs vibrating cleaner. I do however polish the neck and shoulder with 0000 steel wool after ever firing. I also clean the inside of neck by running them onto a nylon barrel brush wrapped with the same steel wool. I have a variable speed motor set up with a drill chuck for cleaning the neck and it works great. I have tried the liquid ultrasonic cleaner and it does a good job cleaning inside and out but I don’t like dealing with wet brass! After cleaning necks inside and out you can anneal and come out with good looking brass. All this may or may not make the round more accurate but at least we have tried!!
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I clean in a Dillon tumbler with corn cob and polish, I then trim as required and polish necks inside with 000 steel wool. I use graphite on the necks; this is for a 6mm BR and a Dasher.
Dave
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