Annealing Brass is yet another one of those question if you ask it on a shooting forum you get about 100 different opinions and I say opinions because I don’t see Metallurgical engineer specializing brass annealing by their name. And what I SAY HERE IS JUST MY OPINION for the same reason. One thing. most agree on is there is no little bit annealed or more annealed it’s not annealed, annealed and over annealed and no in-between. Some say if you over anneal the brass no longer any good (to soft) and to throw it away. Why? If brass gets hard from “work hardenings (resizing, firing) could you not use it for fouler and it get hard again?
As far as what temp annealing happen take your pick from when it starts changing color, right before it glows, right after it glows, and above 750 degrees using temp paint plus the time you keep it there. Next heat source: most use some type of gas and touch another option is induction heat which I think could be a more constant heat source. Then the “Annealer” I’ve seen as simple as setting brass in water up to necks heating next with torch, spin with drill and heating with torch, Homemade using variable speed motor Cake pan and torch, to a store bought several hundred dollars top of the line. Lot of option to go with a lot of opinions. I once read on the internet that
* Abe Lincoln once said don’t believe everything you read on the internet

My take (My opinion) If I heat brass (neck) from between 750 degrees and below starting to glow and I maintain that temp for the same amount of time that it took to go from ambient temp to above 750 and by turning the brass so this is consistent all the way around and the full length of the neck I consider it annealed.
What kind of annealer will do this? According to people on the internet all of the ones listed above will
Read* again
But which is simple, Consistent flip the switch and anneal with minimal adjustment day after day. Probably the better store-bought ones.
When I 1st started thinking of annealing improving accuracy It was not my goal this was before I was shooting long range BR match my goal was to make my brass last longer (neck splits).
So, because that’s my MO I built one a few years back. Does it work, is my opinion right, all I know is it looks like new brass that came annealed, it seems to take less pressure to run the mandrel in and I don’t have split neck problems so that leads me to believe that it is annealed I put 2400 rounds on 6BrX using 150 pieces of brass the brass that went bad was not because of neck splits and no split necks on my other brass. Maybe someone here can tell something else to check to see if it annealed. So, is my ammo more accurate? Well, they say annealed brass is more and I say my brass is annealed so I guess the answer is yes. I figure about 50% of the people that visit this site will read this post only 25% of that group will read it in its entirety about 25% of that group will find it interesting, 25% 0f that group will find it helpful. The main thing is I just spent 2 hrs. typing this with help from my bad arm and hand that’s two hrs. of therapy not only for my arm and hand but for my brain was well